Indian Himalaya, Skye Cuillin Ridge Traverse and classic Scottish Scrambles June 2016

Time passes quickly with little time to blog but plenty of action to report.

On May 6th we departed the UK to attempt an unclimbed peak in the Indian Himalaya. Excited at the opportunity to work for Martin Moran and to visit a remote area of the Indian Himalaya we set off on trek after travelling from Delhi to Urgam. With few Westerners visiting the Garwhal Himalaya we were welcomed into the valley and received our blessings at the famous Kalpeshwar Monastery.

The trek in was very exciting crossing ridges and cols  and was in part similar to Collies ledge on the Cuillin Ridge. Eventually we reached a beautiful base camp in the Vishnu Fortress area. Our objective Peak 5968 lay to the North East and was out of sight from camp. Once at Advanced base camp we could see the ice fall that gave access to the col and the Gimme Glacier. Over the next few days we established a route through the ice fall and established camp 1 just below the col at 5200m. Having the privalidge to be up front with Nigel and Martin H we made a 3am start to attempt the summit. On reaching the col we realised that the sun had already risen on peak 5968m making us too late to attempt to summit but earlier enough to put a trail in for the first few hundred meters. Exhausted we returned to camp and were greeted by the rest of the team. At 11pm that night we rose again and with more team members and safety in numbers we set off. Nothing too technical we wound are way up through the glacier to top out around 7am… Climbing the final 2 m steep wall with a little aid from Martin M I whooped with joy and hurriedly roped my team up to the summit. Closely followed by the others we engrossed the magical. The feeling that we were the first to top out on this beautiful mountain were tremendous. Time passed as we enjoyed a photo shoot before we had to return to camp.  As like every mountain coming down is as hard as going up… The following morning we retraced our route down the ice fall back to ABC. With heavy loads the final few hours back to base camp took their toll. Great food from Navine our cook soon revitalised us as did the dram from Simon. The feeling of a relaxed sleep, a 7am wake up and a rest day or two before trekking out was welcomed. A truly adventurous expedition with some special people. Thanks to everyone and specially to Martin Moran.

On returning to the UK I was so lucky enough to escape the violent stomach bug that struck the others on the flight back; Relieved as it was straight back into action with four days on Skye. Little did I believe that the weather would be good enough for a Cuillin Ridge Traverse but yes it was. Deciding to take our time and have an adventure Simon and I loaded up our packs and set off up the Dubhs Ridge. As mad as an Englishman in the mid day sun we sweated up the slabs, grunting as we moved with our heavy packs. Topping out on Sgurr Dubh Mor we dropped sacks and flew out to Sgurr nan Each and back and dropped to the Spring in Coire Ghrunnda for a perfect bivi. Up at 4am we continued over Sgurr Alasdair, Sgurr Thearlach to the Inn Pinn. Hearing cries for help we realised someone was in trouble and soon saw the helicopter searching for their screams. There was little we good do so far away so we continued our traverse up and down the Inn Pinn, Sgurr Banaachdich, Ghreadaidh and the tops of Mhadaidh. By now the weather had started to change and 40mph winds buffeted us as lenticular clouds menaced in the sky. After a disastrous brew at Bealach na Glaic Moire we decided to continue despite the deteriorating weather. Progress slowed down but we remained steady and cautious of our navigation as the cloud enveloped the ridge and the rain started. Hours passed and we finally topped out on Bruach Na Frithe at 9pm. Wondering whether or not to bail we recieved an updated forecast from Spike and snuggled down. The morning dawned and glimpses of blue sky gave us promise as we headed over to Am Basteir. Having decided not to tackle Naismiths in the wet we ascended Am Bastier and the topped out on Sgurr nan Gillean in Blue skies.

An awesome effort from Simon Well done!

The following week the skies stayed blue and nursing sore feet a day trip to Rum allowed me to prepare for the Rum and Skye trip coming up soon.

It was then time to hit the CMD arete and the Aonach Eagach , two of Scotland’s best ridge scrambles with an old friend…

So it can only be said its been a busy few weeks with more adventures to come not to mention a trip to Iran to climb Mt Damavand in August.

A selection of pictures of the last few weeks: